Marc Jacobs Spring 13

Mod Is The New Black

This is why I love Marc Jacobs so much. He literally always gives us exactly what we don't expect. After the extravagant, absurdist, fur-hat-filled experience that was his Fall collection, he pulled a complete 180 and brought out a collection that "minimal" can't properly describe. "Brutal in its simplicity" is how he characterized it. I think that is a much better label for the collection.
These overly-simple looks had so many details that they all remained beyond interesting. The variations on stripes, (which towards the beginning of the show were just variations on size evolved into changing the spacing, placement, repetition, and even shape of them) brought so much energy and cohesiveness to the collection. See-through pieces, midriff, and almost body-con-tight dresses brought some overt sex appeal to this harsh collection.

Look after look of muted dresses, tops, and skirts came down the runway full of thick, bold prison stripes, very pointy shoes, calf-length skirts, a couple peeks of leopard, and plenty of midriff. His resort collection was inspired by Cindy Sherman's clown series, and it seems he is still thinking about that. There were a few circus influences towards the middle of the show: the scalloped minidress on the right above alludes to a circus tent, and the looks with excessively-large collars (one shown on the left below) hint at the clown influence. (Who knew? Clowns in fashion? I'm still puzzled by Marc Jacobs Resort...Clearly I'm the one that's still thinking about it)

Sidenote: Mickey Mouse crop-top? I'm dead. So good.

Marc Jacobs designs by deconstructing vintage clothes and studying their construction and design, and then sees how he can modernize them. This unique design process has never been more evident. The 60s influence is everywhere here -- yet it all feels incredibly modern. The cuts and variations on materials (Sequined striped gowns - on the right below - closing the show killed me) brought those 60's fashion ideas into 2013.
Marc's shows are always good indicators of some of the coming season's trends. What I noticed here was a mix of 60's (mod) and 90's (midriff) influence, tons and tons of black and white (Which I've seen at pretty much all the shows so far), sheer fabrics, and this sense of intense minimalism. The finale, when the models walked out from behind revolving mirrors and filled the triangle-shaped stage - almost storming the audience - really nailed in the brutality of it all.

So it looks like Mod is the new black, at least for this season until Marc completely pulls the rug out from under everyone yet again.