Marc Jacobs Spring 13

Mod Is The New Black

This is why I love Marc Jacobs so much. He literally always gives us exactly what we don't expect. After the extravagant, absurdist, fur-hat-filled experience that was his Fall collection, he pulled a complete 180 and brought out a collection that "minimal" can't properly describe. "Brutal in its simplicity" is how he characterized it. I think that is a much better label for the collection.
These overly-simple looks had so many details that they all remained beyond interesting. The variations on stripes, (which towards the beginning of the show were just variations on size evolved into changing the spacing, placement, repetition, and even shape of them) brought so much energy and cohesiveness to the collection. See-through pieces, midriff, and almost body-con-tight dresses brought some overt sex appeal to this harsh collection.

Look after look of muted dresses, tops, and skirts came down the runway full of thick, bold prison stripes, very pointy shoes, calf-length skirts, a couple peeks of leopard, and plenty of midriff. His resort collection was inspired by Cindy Sherman's clown series, and it seems he is still thinking about that. There were a few circus influences towards the middle of the show: the scalloped minidress on the right above alludes to a circus tent, and the looks with excessively-large collars (one shown on the left below) hint at the clown influence. (Who knew? Clowns in fashion? I'm still puzzled by Marc Jacobs Resort...Clearly I'm the one that's still thinking about it)

Sidenote: Mickey Mouse crop-top? I'm dead. So good.

Marc Jacobs designs by deconstructing vintage clothes and studying their construction and design, and then sees how he can modernize them. This unique design process has never been more evident. The 60s influence is everywhere here -- yet it all feels incredibly modern. The cuts and variations on materials (Sequined striped gowns - on the right below - closing the show killed me) brought those 60's fashion ideas into 2013.
Marc's shows are always good indicators of some of the coming season's trends. What I noticed here was a mix of 60's (mod) and 90's (midriff) influence, tons and tons of black and white (Which I've seen at pretty much all the shows so far), sheer fabrics, and this sense of intense minimalism. The finale, when the models walked out from behind revolving mirrors and filled the triangle-shaped stage - almost storming the audience - really nailed in the brutality of it all.

So it looks like Mod is the new black, at least for this season until Marc completely pulls the rug out from under everyone yet again.

New York Fashion Week So Far

So far, I've been blown away by most of the Spring shows. Like, I cannot with how stunningly beautiful some of the collections have been. Here are my favorite collections (So far of course).

Zac Posen

(All Photos from Style.com)

How can you not love Zac? Unbelievably sexy body con dresses, constantly using different patterns and materials, every show like an explosion of color, not to mention how handsome and dapper Zac himself is. His spring collection was no different, he played to his strengths - gowns and dressed dripping in sex appeal, gorgeous jackets on top of pencil and floor length skirts - extreme femininity. The gowns ranged from heavier materials to the most delicate tulle adorning one of his enormous-skirted finale dresses. I'm obsessed with the peplum-like hem of the top in the second look above, as well as the gentle floral at the bottom of the wedding dress on the right above. In short - this collection is just amazing.


Chado Ralph Rucci

I was honestly so taken aback by this collection. I was not expecting such an obscenely modern (I use that term in the best possible way) show. Ralph Rucci's clothes are always very modern and almost futuristic, but he really nailed that look this season. The colors! The cutouts! The cuts! The everything! Sidenote: who knew pink was so futuristic? The whole collection reminded me of The Jetsons - a 1950s/60s vision of the future. The jumpsuit-like quality of a lot of the jackets and dresses and the adapted A-line skirts encapsulate this. The future has never looked so good.


Jason Wu

Oh my god so sexy. Jason Wu served up S&M realness for spring, and it worked so damn well. When one of the first looks of a show is a transparent belted blazer (The first look on the right) you know it's going to be an amazing collection. He continued this see-through theme throughout the collection, including the shoes. Borrowing the mesh from the above-the-elbow gloves (as well as from the Versace fall boots) he created mesh pumps with crystals adorning the heel. And even though the collection was full of S&M and menswear references (Suspenders, blazers...) every look remained delightfully feminine.


Monique Lhuillier

I'm honestly at a loss for what to say about Monique Lhullier's spring collection. 'Etherial beauty' just doesn't cut it. Taking the aquatic theme present largely in last year's spring shows and putting an almost royal spin on it brought out some of the most stunning gowns of the season so far. Each look looks as if it floated down the runway, the materials were so light. Many of the floor-length gowns were transparent, giving a glimpse of the gorgeous strappy heels. The Monique Lhullier girl this season is a mermaid princess, stepping (or swimming) out in all manner of gold and seashells.